Charleston – Coloring Outside the Lines

Charleston, South Carolina was always on my list of places that I was going to visit when I got “around to it.” Literary giant Pat Conroy, one of my favorite authors, lives approximately 50 miles away in the town of Beaufort but has set several of his novels in the historic Southern port city. I had also previously had the opportunity to visit Savannah, GA both as on a family trip as an child and on a grown-up vacation in search of all things Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

Charleston and Savannah, roughly a two-hour car ride apart, maintain a long-standing sisterly rivalry as the two principal urban centers of the geographically and culturally distinct coastal region known as the “Low Country.” I had always wanted to experience both cities to see the comparison for myself. So, this past March, my partner–who loves experiencing different cultures as much as I do– and I flew from Nashville (where we live) to Charleston for a little three-night getaway.

The verdict? I don’t think it’s really fair or necessary to rank these two wonderful communities that date back to colonial times as being “better” or “worse.” They both embody a unique sense of place and character. I could sum it up by saying that Savannah feels like the eccentric and sometimes rowdy sister who comes alive on Saturday nights, while Charleston is the poised and gracious hostess of a relaxed Sunday brunch.

Charleston’s Diverse Heritage
Charleston was first settled by the English way back in 1670, but the city’s appeal is not purely a matter of how old it is. Rather, Charleston offers a rich tapestry of cultures that make the city so remarkable. Charleston’s Historic District includes a French Quarter, but with a considerably more sedate vibe than New Orleans. The French men and women who made their way to Charleston in the late 17th Century were the Huguenots, Calvinist Protestants fleeing religious persecution in their motherland. So, the French influences seem to morph into other heritages. (Evidently the city does hold an annual Mardi Gras celebration though.)

Charleston and the surrounding locales are also strongly shaped by the Gullah people, the descendants of black slaves who developed their own language and have preserved many distinct cultural traditions from Western and Central Africa. The vast City Market complex provides an excellent opportunity to browse Gullah arts and crafts, though vendors display their handiwork on the nearby sidewalks as well.

Staying There and Getting Around
If you want to experience the essence of Charleston culture for your vacation, I suggest staying in or near the Downtown Historic District. We rested our heads at the Days Inn, which was conveniently located and unlike some locations in that chain was perfectly fine and did not have the feel of a meth lab/crack house combination.

The experience of Charleston on foot holds a delight for the senses; the sights, smells, and sounds come together into something extra special. The different hours of the day all have their own feel to them. The nighttime glow of the gas lamps on the residential streets seems almost other-worldly. As a word of warning though, the Google Maps app for pedestrians is pretty worthless in the above-mentioned City Market area with its maze of dead-end streets and alleys. So, if you are needing to get someplace on foot in a timely fashion, don’t be afraid to ask the locals for detailed directions; Charleston consistently ranks as one of America’s most polite cities.

To take in the lay of the land, there are many horse-drawn carriage tours of the Historic District. To venture out a little further, I would highly recommend a bus tour from Grayline. I don’t think it’s a regular part of the tour we were on, but the driver was kind enough to take us on detour through the campus of The Citadel, the military college that inspired Conroy’s novel Lords of Discipline. After the sun goes down, I strongly suggest taking a ghost tour. There are many from which to choose, but I can personally vouch for Bulldog Tours. Whether or not you are a fan of the paranormal, the local color will provide memorable evening entertainment.

Taking In the Historical Sites
I won’t pretend to deliver a comprehensive catalog of the countless attractions of interest to history lovers. However, Fort Sumter, where the War Between the States began would certainly top such a list. I confess that I sometimes grow weary with the whole Civil War re-enactment obsession here in the South. Yet, to walk the hallowed ground of the island where those ominous shots were fired provides a moving encounter with the past.

The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon provides a fascinating glimpse into the era of the American Revolution. In addition to making a daytime stop at this important public building, we also experienced the dungeon portion as part of the above-mentioned ghost tour. Given the role of slavery in creating Charleston, the Old Slave Mart Museum tells a valuable story of history’s neglected voices. Yes, Charleston has some elements that present the Gone with the Wind spectacle of the Old South, but from what I can see, I think that there is at least some degree of effort to balance those images with the bigger picture.

Charleston has been deemed “the Holy City,” though that distinction is more a matter of the quantity of houses of worship than a particular bent to piety. There are so many sanctuaries of historic significance that going inside all of them may not be practical, and sometimes the hours during which the doors are open to tourists can seem a bit arbitrary. If you choose just one, make it Saint Michael’s with its well-preserved 18th Century touches.

The graveyards and cemeteries associated with Charleston’s churches also provide endless intrigue. (I confess that I didn’t know the difference between a graveyard and a cemetery before my trip. I will leave it to you, dear reader, to Google it yourself if you need to.) An especially colorful series of historical events surround this distinction on the grounds of Saint Philip’s Church, which is very near the relatively small but charming structure of the French Huguenot Church. I would also be remiss if I did not mention the impressive Cathederal of Saint John the Baptist, the mother church of the region’s Roman Catholic Diocese.

A Detour to Blooming Things and Alligators
Several historic plantations on the outskirts of Charleston are open to visitors. We chose Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, which we were told was the best option for those more interested in nature and wildlife than the whole Rhett Butler/Scarlett motif. The plantation house was rebuilt after the Civil War ended, so the architecture reflects a sense of dignified restraint.

What makes Magnolia so worthwhile are the wonderful garden paths where nature truly comes alive. We were there in early March, which in the Low Country warmth marks the start of Spring, so we were truly blessed by the fragrances in out midst. One particular smell, which we later identified as the tea olive tree, permeated inside the plantation residence, so much so that I asked the guides if they were using some special type of potpourri or air-freshener. I guess it’s hard to beat Mother Nature’s gifts in that department. There are a host of specialized tours available on the property, and we opted for a boat ride through the swamp, complete with alligators.

Transportation-Related Aside: We had not rented a car for our stay, so we chose the ride-sharing service Uber for the 10-mile journey from our hotel to the Magnolia. Using Uber’s smart-phone app to book a return trip proved impossible, so along with a family of fellow Magnolia visitors in the same predicament, we relied on an old-school taxi service to get back into the city. I don’t mean this as a slam against Uber, as the functionality works well under most normal circumstances. Yet, the two travel lessons here are that it’s essential
to be able to formulate a back-up plan on the fly and that total strangers can become friends in the midst of unscripted little adventures.

Filling the Stomach and Quenching a Thirst–Not a Problem Here
Food and drink are a big part of the Charleston experience. Thankfully, the walking we did sort of balanced out the calories we consumed. Upon checking into our hotel around lunchtime, we were enticed by a friendly gentleman with a plate of scrumptious hush puppy samples to try Hyman’s Seafood. We enjoyed delicious moonshine margaritas, as it was five o’clock somewhere. I actually opted for a land-based entrée of fried pork chops, which were very good. Yes, it’s kind of touristy, but Hyman’s serves up good eats in satisfying quantities, and the mementos on the wall highlighting the owner’s active involvement in Charleston’s Jewish community were a nice touch.

I don’t have the time and space to provide a rundown of all that we ate and drank during our vacation. Yet, in terms of atmosphere, a sunset dinner at the waterfront eatery Fleet Landing was certainly a highlight. I am not the biggest seafood fan on the planet, but I made do just fine with my standard choice of grilled tilapia. My other half was not blown away by the more exotic offerings he sampled, but I would still give a thumb’s up in terms of the picturesque scenery. A couple of other dining highlights included breakfast at Eli’s Table and a wonderful and reasonably priced (The latter adjective is not one that gets used very often in discussing Charleston restaurants.) lunch at Gaulart & Maliclet Fast & French Café.

It’s not that Charleston is just about restaurants, though they do seem to occupy a major part of the built landscape. Yet, I can sum things up by saying that Charleston is a feast for memorable experiences of all kinds. In a nation becoming increasingly homogenized, it’s one of those places to visit that has a mindset and a style all its own.