Coloring Outside the Lines

Explaining Why I Love Cruises So Much and Offering a Few Tips for Hitting the High Seas

Towel Art on Serende of the Seas

I have always loved to travel. My mom recounts how that, even before I was old enough to read, I would obsess over the details of family vacations. As an adult, I bear a closer resemblance to Chevy Chase’s Clark Griswold character in the Vacation films than I would like to admit, someone who views sightseeing as a task to be mastered,

I did not go on my first cruise until 2010, when I had the chance to join a wonderful group of friends on the Celebrity Solstice voyage of the Eastern Caribbean. I knew that I would have fun, but I ended up having even more fun than I anticipated. I introduced my other half to cruising in 2011 (Celebrity Millennium), and we became hooked as a couple, sailing the oceans again in 2013 (Navigator of the Seas), 2014 (MSC Divina), and 2015 (Serenade of the Seas).

Yes, the fact that I cite the names of the vessels indicates that I am detail oriented, Yet, I also do this because the identity of the ship, line, and fellow passengers become so integral to the cruise experience. Ships take on personalities that represent so much more than just transportation.

I don’t claim expert status on the in’s and out’s of cruises. I have sailed on three different lines (Celebrity, Royal Caribbean, and MSC), and of course there are quite a few others in the marketplace. Also, all of my cruises thus far have involved the Caribbean, though I have managed to experience the three main divisions of that region: Eastern, Western, and Southern. I do hope to expand into other bodies of water in the future, Alaska in particular, but for now the Caribbean seems to be the best fit in terms of both time and money constraints.

So just why have I become so why have the two words “all aboard” become so magical for me?

Mixing Structured Activity and Unstructured Relaxation
You can find so many beautiful and comfortable spaces to enjoy the sun and sea: reading a book by the pool, listening to live music in a lounge, people watching in one of the high-traffic public areas, or finding an out-of-the-way deck for staring out into the ocean. I am someone who needs some downtime to recharge my batteries, so I love having so many venues for rest and restoration.

On the other hand, as shown in the photo above, each evening, your cabin steward will leave you a printed schedule (occasionally supplemented with a work of towel art) of the next day’s activities. Since I appreciate some degree of structure and planning, even on vacation, I love looking through the schedule with my other half and discussing the things that we might enjoy sampling either together or as a couple.

I can’t even begin to cover the gamut of the recreation and entertainment options happening, particularly on the days when the ship sails at sea. There is bingo and a casino of course, and the trivia games can get pretty cutthroat. There is a spa and fitness facility with all kinds of treatments and classes for feeling and looking better. There are art auctions and wine tastings and karaoke contests. There are multiple options for live entertainment.

I like being able to sample different pursuits at sea, even some that I would probably never do on land. If I don’t enjoy something, I can vote with my two feet and find another event more to my liking; it’s all good. I like being a joiner and meeting new people, but when I’ve had my fill of being social, it’s nice to be able to get a serenity fix.

Excursions at Port
You don’t have to get off the boat at the different ports of call, and if it’s someplace you’ve already been it’s sort of neat to pretty much have the ship to yourself. Yet, I love sightseeing and experiencing different cultures, so I generally will be found participating in an excursion.

There are a wide range of excursions from which to choose, varying greatly in price and level of physical activity. I am not much of an athlete or daredevil, so I tend to focus on offerings that involve history, architecture, the environment, and creatures in their natural habitat.

My default option tends to be taking a sightseeing tour either on foot to see urban locales closest to the port or via bus, van, etc. to take in the wider region. Because of my interest in ocean life, I have also taken several tours devoted to that realm, including an absolutely amazing glass bottom boat ride in the Southern Caribbean paradise of Bonaire and an enthralling interactive eco-boat tour at Great Stirrup Cay in the Bahamas. If I have to choose, those are probably the two highlights of my cruising experience so far.

You don’t have to book an excursion to go sightseeing in a port of call, but I always figure that I want to make the most of my time with the assistance of someone who knows where they are going. Even when I am taking excursions, there is generally time before or after to walk around and take in the locale unsupervised. My other half and I have a cardinal rule though; we refuse to be those boring Americans who gravitate toward Hard Rock Cafe and other chains we have at home. I can attest that the Caribbean has so many unique memories to offer; why not live a little?

Turning Off Gadgets and Rediscovering Human Interaction
Yes, you can purchase wi-fi plans on board, but it’s rather pricey, and the speed seems akin to dial-up service when Bill Clinton was president. So, given that my job involves technology, and I relish the chance to turn off the noise for a week or more.

Cruising provides so many opportunities to get to know other people in an environment that facilitates honest to goodness, conversation from a bygone gracious era. The experience of eating dinner in the dining room hearkens back to the days when breaking bread with others was an event in itself, not just a “30 minutes or less” precursor to other commitments. Granted, on some nights I prefer to eat at the buffet to save time and dress down, but it’s neat to have those experiences that seem so elusive in daily life.

So, if you’ve never been on a cruise, and I’ve sold you on the idea, here are some tips. Again, I don’t claim to be a travel expert, but I can offer some general insights based on experience

Do Your Homework
As mentioned earlier, individual cruise lines and ships are an integral part of the experience. It’s not a matter of “good” or “bad” choices, but rather, there are different environments catering to different kinds of travelers. Also, even within the same cruise line, size of the ship makes a difference. The new mega-size marvels offer impressive bells and whistles, but I enjoy the more relaxed environment of the relatively smaller vessels. My site of choice for getting the skinny on all of this is Cruise Critic, but I am sure there of plenty of other places on the Web.

Factor All Kinds of Expenses
Cruising in my mind offers a value for your traveling dollar, but that doesn’t mean it’s cheap. Yes, your fare includes food and entertainment, but alcohol and pretty much any beverages beyond water, coffee, tea, and lemonade are an extra charge. Be prepared for the cruise line to look for creative ways to generate extra revenue, like the bartender at the breakfast buffet with fresh-squeezed orange juice. And, of course, photographers are there to capture memories of your voyage, but whether you visit the photo gallery to purchase a package of these shots is up to you.

In recent years, most cruise lines have made the transition to automatically charging each passenger a set fee for gratuities (11 or 12 bucks or so) that gets divided among the staff, and gratuities are also added to bar tabs. Beyond this convention, tips can still be given to reward outstanding service by individual crew members. Yes, this can certainly add to the overall cost of your vacation. However, in my mind, part of being a gracious guest is caring about the people who are working so hard to take care of you.

As mentioned above, excursions are an extra, but if you really want to experience the places to which the ship is sailing, I think they are worth it. A basic kind of tour can be found for thirty bucks or so a person, but for the most exotic kinds of fun, the sky is the limit. You can book them either through the ship or independently. There are pluses and minuses either way. Trip Advisor is a wonderful resource for booking on your own, and from my experience, you can sometimes find better selections and prices that way. Yet, if you like things more cut and dried as far as the logistics and details, stick to booking through the cruise line.

Maybe Start Small
If you are not sure whether you will enjoying cruising, I suggest starting with a shorter itinerary, maybe four or five days. I can’t personally relate to those who don’t become total cruise addicts. Yet, motion sickness can sometimes be a factor; I do suggest packing the appropriate over-the-counter medications in case you need them. If you are someone who doesn’t like group settings involving strangers at all and are completely inflexible in that regard, cruises may not be your cup of tea. Also, if you are a 24/7 cell phone person who can’t dial it down even a bit, you may be a bit disappointed. Otherwise, bon voyage!

Three Nonfiction Picks That Help Explain The Current Political Divide

In my youth, I aspired to a career in politics and remained quite politically active well into my thirties. I even managed to get a political science degree along the way. Things moved in a different direction, and my activism is now more focused. Yet, I still fancy myself as something of an armchair politico.

I am a Democrat, and as I have explained in previous posts, I am probably liberal (especially on social issues) for the South but more moderate in comparison to other parts of the country. In recent years, I have found myself increasingly discouraged–almost downright cynical–about the polarized state of American partisan politics.

The Tennessee Presidential Primary takes place in early March, but early voting is now under way. (It’s such a wonderful convenience that all states need to implement, but I digress.) I will vote, as I always do, but I am disappointed that my own party seems so short on choices, but more importantly, I am saddened that the whole process seems stuck in a state of gridlock.

So, because I studied political science and work in the book industry, I have turned to books to try to better understand the lay of the land. I realize that not everyone wants to read in-depth about political topics, and the titles I am putting forth are all a few years old, but in terms of asking how we got here, I think the insights are quite valuable.

Red State, Blue State, Rich State, Poor State: Why Americans Vote the Way They Do by Andrew Gelman

Many of my fellow Democrats have watched election results that haven’t gone their way in the South and Heartland and lamented the apparent phenomenon of those of humble circumstances having embraced the Republican party wholeheartedly in this neck of the woods and voting against their class interests. Well, actually it’s complicated… Gelman’s research documents that differences in the behavior of affluent voters in Red and Blue States are what drive the differences in the American electoral map.

In states where overall incomes are low, residents on the higher end of the economic ladder skew so heavily Republican relative to those at the bottom that the landscape is altered entirely. On the other hand, in states where overall incomes are high, the rich don’t differ nearly as much as the poor in how they vote. There are a host of factors tied to race, religion, and culture shaping this divide, and I find the discussion quite fascinating.

The Big Sort: Why the Clustering of Like-Minded America is Tearing Us Apart by Bill Bishop

Given my interest in both politics and marketing, Bill Bishop’s perspective is addictive to me. As a Gen X member just a couple of years shy of 50, I have seen firsthand the trends he examines develop over the last three decades or so, for better and worse. Bishop explores how Americans–with so many more choices of where to live, where to shop, what to watch, and what to believe–create their own echo-chambers where they only have to listen to people just like themselves. Granted, it may not be a completely original idea, but Bishop does such an excellent job of showing us how that great middle ground of American consensus was lost.

Deer Hunting with Jesus: Dispatches from America’s Class War by Joe Bageant

Bageant recounts his journey home to rural Virginia after several decades in America’s liberal counter-culture. Yes, Virginia is the one patch of the former Confederacy that is actually becoming more blue thanks to the DC suburbs, but Bageant hails from a very different part of the state.

Bageant reminds me of Bernie Sanders; I think his policy ideas are probably too liberal for me, but I am grateful to him for raising those elephant in the room questions that others avoid. Bageant asserts that the working-class voters of his community really don’t have a voice on either side of the aisle, and politics often becomes a lesser of two evils kind of sideshow rather than a concrete means to make life better.

Stay warm, and don’t forget to vote early and often!

Celebrating My Favorite Singer Frank Sinatra at 100

December 12th marks the 100th birthday of the colorful singer, actor, and pop-culture icon known as “ol’ Blue Eyes.” Mr. Sinatra went to the great lounge in the sky back in 1998, and as sad as I was when the entertainment world had to say goodbye to him, I figured that 82 was a pretty good run for a guy who was always holding a glass of straight Jack Daniels and an unfiltered Camel.

Okay, I admit that I am two days late, but I did not want this important historical milestone to pass completely without taking some time to look back on the rich legacy that this show business giant left us and why he has always held such a spell on me.

Let me clarify, first of all, that the mercurial Sinatra was no saint. In fact, he was as far from sainthood as you could get. He held notoriously long grudges with white-hot intensity, and he was prone to bullying when he didn’t get his way. While the full extent of his mafia ties remains a subject of speculation and debate, no one denies that the kid from the rough streets of Hoboken, New Jersey always carried a good bit of that edge with him into adulthood.

So just how did a Gen X boy like me growing up in rural Western Kentucky become obsessed with the leader of the Rat Pack? Well, I can trace the formative years back to two ingredients, my mother’s old records and seventies television variety shows.

My mom was more into Nat King Cole and Johnny Mathis, but she did own a Sinatra record or two in her collection. I have always possessed highly eclectic musical tastes, so much so that I am fond of saying that if I am ever in a serious accident or medical emergency of some sort, and the person who rescues me or tries to rescue me takes the iPod out of my pocket, that person is going to look at the dizzying range of artists on my playlists and think that I am (or was) batshit crazy.

So, I loved sampling old vinyl, and the golden Rat Pack age that I had missed by a few years somehow mesmerized me. I hate to embody a gay male cliché, but as a child I was obsessed with the large crop of variety shows and specials that ruled the airwaves.

At regular intervals, NBC would air Dean Martin Celebrity Roasts from the MGM Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas. The place looked so glamorous, and I knew that I would end up there as a tourist someday. I adored the banter of aging glitzy celebrities who were fighting hard to remain relevant in the new era of long hair and leisure suits, and there were so many showbiz legends who knew how to act like the larger than life figures they were.

Martin ran the proceedings of course, but Frank was still the coolest kid on the block whose presence caused a scene. My grandmother actually thought that Martin was a better singer than Sinatra, and even though I still don’t quite agree with that sentiment, I can say that Hollywood history does indeed indicate that Martin was a much more likable human being to those around him than was Sinatra.

So, Frank was the guy who grabbed my attention even more than his talented cohorts, In 1981, Republican Ronald Reagan’s inaugural festivities included a star-studded black-tie gala orchestrated by none other than Sinatra. Even though by 1984 I was destined to wear a Mondale/Ferraro button to school every day and become a loyal Democrat, I enjoyed seeing this touch of Hollywood style; ironically enough, Sinatra had played the same role for Democrat John F. Kennedy’s inauguration in 1961,

By the time I was in my early 20’s, I owned a two-cassette collection of Sinatra’s greatest hits, and as the digital era began, I replaced it with a CD. At home alone, sometimes consuming an adult beverage or two, Luck Be a Lady and New York, New York were my pick-me up energy tunes. My Way, That’s Life, and It Was a Very Good Year captured the wistful angst I was feeling. Strangers in the Night and Fly Me to the Moon were anthems of longing for new possibilities.

I also managed to discover Sinatra’s films. The silver screen presented an interesting dichotomy where he was concerned. He had long dry stretches where his offerings were marginal at best. Yet, when he was on he was really on.

From Here to Eternity, for which Sinatra won the Best Supporting Actor Oscar, is one of my all-time favorite films. Granted, the role of the hot-tempered, hard-drinking Private Maggio did not require much of a stretch for Sinatra, but the pain and heartache still shine through in a manner that gives me goosebumps.

Interesting aside, many Tinseltown historians have asserted that Sinatra served as the basis for the fictional singer and actor Johnny Fontane in The Godfather. The memorable scene in which a Hollywood producer who initially had refused to cast Fontane in his upcoming film wakes up to find the bloody head of his beloved horse in bed with him was rumored to have been part of the real-life drama behind how Sinatra got the part of a lifetime in Eternity.

I would also like to make a plug for Sinatra’s compelling turn as a heroin addict in The Man with the Golden Arm. Sinatra wasn’t afraid to champion controversial projects that were quite cutting edge for their day. Another such film that I adore is the The Manchurian Candidate, the consummate political thriller. I love Denzel Washington and Meryl Streep, but their remake lacked the incisive power of the brilliant original.

Speaking of politics, Sinatra’s partisan shifts have left many scratching their heads. He was a New Deal liberal who found himself teetering on the edge of blacklisting for several decades. He also championed integration of the Vegas Strip on behalf of his dear friend Sammy Davis Jr. at a time when Sin City’s racial divide was akin to the Deep South, As mentioned earlier, he was JFK’s go-to guy in Hollywood during his campaign and the early part of his presidency.

Yet, Sinatra detested what he saw as the smug hypocrisy in much of the Kennedy clan. When Robert Kennedy asked him to drop Davis Jr. from the list of inaugural headliners because of his interracial marriage, Sinatra complied, but inside he was seething. As attorney general, RFK’s war on organized crime went after many of Sinatra’s buddies. Granted, I think there clearly were two sides to the story, but I can understand the resentment on the part of Sinatra that his influence in the underworld and in Hollywood were put to use to get JFK elected but then soon became a source of shame when the election was over.

Evidently, the last straw was a decision by the White House to snub Sinatra’s invitation for President Kennedy to stay at his home during a Southern California visit. That fracture never healed, and Sinatra made a progression from anti-Kennedy Democrat to full-fledged Republican. Of course, I also think it’s fair to say that the essence of what it meant to be a liberal was shifting dramatically in the era of the Hippie counterculture, so I think some of that evolution would have happened even without the Kennedy feud.

Sinatra also provided interesting contrasts in his multiple marriages and relationships with women. He was prone to chronic infidelity, and his histrionics were legendary. Yet, when push came to shove, he had the capacity for incredible generosity and loyalty. As Judy Garland struggled with her many demons of depression and addiction, she is reported to have received encouraging telegrams from her longtime friend Sinatra urging her not to give up the fight.

So, Sinatra holds many interesting paradoxes and contradictions. A great deal has been said and written about Ol’ Blue Eyes, and folks may disagree about the details. Yet, I think we can safely say that he was never boring, and he made the world a bit more colorful with his presence.

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Four Reasons Why Asheville, North Carolina is a Special Travel Destination

Back in August of 2014, my other half and I decided to spend a weekend in the mountain city of Asheville, North Carolina. We stayed in a suburban motel and were most focused on the idea of spending a day at the Biltmore Estate, and the buildings and grounds of the George Vanderbilt family’s 8,000 acre spread certainly offered a feast for the senses. Yet, when we decided to also spend some time checking out the rest of what Asheville had to offer, we were blown away, particularly by the city’s vibrant and charming Downtown area. So, a year later we decided to splurge and stay at the trendy Hotel Indigo within walking distance to all of the hipster merriment that makes Asheville one of the hottest tourist destinations in the Southeast.

Asheville certainly holds a number of individual attractions worth visiting, but the most special thing about the city turns out to be the city itself. It’s a quirky spot of deep blue in a sea of red; the freak flags really fly here, and I say that in a spirit of love and admiration. If you appreciate off the beaten path places where the finer things in life are served up with a side dish of eccentricity, Asheville is your kind of town. You owe it to yourself to come and stay there for at least three or four days and devote the bulk of your time to eating, drinking, people watching, and enjoying the views in a place where Mother Nature and the built environment come together in perfect harmony. Rather than offering a rundown of what to see in Asheville, I would like to focus on making the sale of why it’s such a wonderful oasis.

The Mountains
Asheville is located in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains, and the historic Blue Ridge Parkway winds along the city’s outskirts. There is just something extra special about having the cultural amenities of an urban area but also the beautiful horizon always within your gaze. One day during our stay we drove a few miles down the gorgeous highway to Craggy Gardens for some hiking and a picnic lunch. The views are stunning, and the location is still close enough to town to not get too off-track from the goings-on there. Mount Mitchell, the highest point east of the Mississippi River is not too far away, though we saved that detour for a future trip. If you are one of those serious adventurers who buy fancy gear at REI and likes to sleep under the stars, there are certainly endless options for you in the Asheville region. Yet, if you are like me and just want little three or four-hour adventures outside before you go back to a comfortable hotel room, there are also plenty of places to get that fix.

The Architecture
Downtown Asheville offers some of the best-preserved concentrations of Victorian and Art Deco structures in the nation. In some respects, this reality began as a happy accident of sorts. The mountain city spent a good bit of the 20th Century plagued with economic busts that lasted longer than their preceding booms. Right about the time most American cities embraced the prosperity of the 1950’s and 1960’s by “renewing” their urban cores to become more like the suburbs, Asheville found itself a bit too cash-strapped to follow that path.

There were some close calls in the 1970’s and 1980’s, but by then the powers that be started to embrace a very different kind of redevelopment tied to the arts, culture, and sustainable living. Granted, plenty of places have gone the route of historic preservation in recent decades, but Asheville somehow ties it together in a way that makes a casual city stroll uniquely approachable and festive.

The People
Speaking of festive, Asheville lives up to its stereotype for being a bit off its rocker, but that’s a good thing. It’s a very safe and welcoming place, so don’t think of it as “I’m going to get mugged” kind of crazy. Rather, think of that odd relative in your extended family who you really love but who marches to the beat of a different drummer, and just think of place with civility and grace where that relative would feel welcome with open arms. Think of that relative having friends as eccentric as they are, and that’s Asheville.

From George Vanderbilt to the current crop of Millennials who make the North Carolina mountains one of the “it” places to be, Asheville maintains a track record of colorful transplants from other places putting their resources into living a life of creativity and beauty. The trustafarian identity, while not completely unique to Asheville, certainly shapes the vibe of the place.

I realize that no place is perfect, but from what I see as an outsider looking in, this diverse group of rebels and dreamers seems to have built a community that actually practices what it preaches. I have received warning that Asheville–like many cities tied to tourism–offers that awkward combination of high housing prices and a shortage of well-paying jobs. Yet, I can attest that it’s at least a fun place to visit and maybe consider relocating to if I ever win the lottery.

The Food
I don’t make a practice of speaking in the vernacular of texting and social media, but OMG! If you appreciate fresh ingredients, craft beer, and the idea of dining out as an event rather than merely a means of filling the stomach, Asheville is like Heaven! Granted, I know that the local and organic food movements have swept many urban areas across the United States in recent years, but Asheville is an epicenter of this welcome development. The actual city of Asheville has roughly 100,000 or so residents, but the range of culinary choices make it seem like a much bigger place.

I can’t even begin to provide a rundown of all of the eateries worth visiting, as I can only touch on the highlights. For carnivores, 12 Bones Smokehouse serving up shoulder after shoulder of the region’s iconic pulled pork barbecue, does indeed live up to the hype, from my experience at least. If meat is not your thing–or like me you embrace the movement of eating at least one vegetarian dinner each week–Laughing Seed Cafe proves that eating with the planet in mind can still feel scrumptious and hearty. Also, If you want to experience the definitive Southern breakfast in a setting that oozes warmth and charm, begin at least one of your days in Asheville at Early Girl Eatery.

Bottom Line
There are plenty of helpful travel guides and similar resources out there. My intent is not to take on that role here; I can simply confirm that Asheville is a very special getaway location. It is a nice break from normalcy and conventionality. Make those vacation plans now!